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This article needs additional citations for verification. Please help improve this article by adding reliable references. Unsourced material may be challenged and removed. (June 2008) |
In American English, a dress, button-front, or button-up shirt is a predominantly men's shirt with a collar, a full-length opening at the front from the collar to the hem, and full length sleeves with cuffs. The opening fastens closed along a placket using buttons or studs, and the cuffs close with buttons or cuff links. Some formal shirts have separable collars attached with studs. In British English, this garment is simply known as a shirt, while a dress shirt is specifically a more formal shirt; the evening variety is worn with black tie or white tie and is also discussed below. Dress shirts are normally made from woven cloth, and can be worn with a jacket and tie (including suits and formalwear). Less formal variations on the standard pattern are also common. The term button-down is often used incorrectly in American English to refer to a standard shirt, though elsewhere, for example in British English, it refers exclusively to a buttonned-collar shirt. The analogous garment for women to a men's dress shirt is a blouse.
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Components
A traditional tailored shirt has various components, such as the sleeves, which cover the arms, and a band of fabric around each wrist known as a cuff. The collar, a strip around the neck, is normally a turndown collar, with the strip folded down away from the neck, leaving two points at the front, the width of which is the spread. Where the two sides join at the front, the buttons are fastened down the placket, and the yoke is the shaped piece of fabric used to cover the back of the shoulders.
Collars
There are various different styles of collar, which is the primary indicator of the formality of a shirt.[1] Those discussed here are all attached collars, not styles specific to detachable collars.
- Spread collars measures from around 3½ to 6 inches between the collar points, and the wider collars are often referred to as a cutaway or Windsor collars after the Duke of Windsor.
- Point, straight or small collar are narrow, with 2½ to 3¼ inches between the points of the collar.
- Tab collars are point collars with two loops of fabric extending from the middle of the collar, which meet behind the tie, designed to give the tie an arc effect. The tabs can be closed with a metal snap, button or stud.
- Eyelet collars require a barbell-style collar bar.
- Club collars have rounded edges, and were very popular in the first few decades of the twentieth century.
- Button-down collar have points fastened down by buttons on the front of the shirt. Introduced by Brooks Brothers in 1896, they were patterned after the shirts of polo players and were used exclusively on sports shirts until the 1950s in America. It is still considered a more sporting style, and, particularly outside America, some people still do not wear suits with this style of collar.
- The varsity is a type of spread collar in which the points curve outward from the placket of the shirt.
- Shirts designed to take a detachable collar have a tunic collar, which is a low standing band of fabric around the neck, with a hole at the front and back for the collar studs.
Contrast collar shirts are occasionally made, which are white collars on a coloured or patterned shirt. These are worn for a variety of reasons, such as to offset certain complexions;[2] because of a tradition started by detachable collars, where it is impractical to have many collars in different matching colours; and finally because when a collar is replaced it unlikely an exact colour match will be found.[3] These collars are generally considered more formal than matching fabric.
Placket
This is the vertical strip on the front of the dress shirt where the buttonholes are sewn. The placket is often made approximately 1.5 inches wide and runs along the centre line of dress shirts, giving a symmetrical appearance to the join between the sides of the shirt. It is made by folding back the left side of the shirt twice and sewing two rows of stitching down.
Cuffs
The main distinctions between cuffs are whether they require buttons or cufflinks to fasten, and whether they are folded back (double) or single. The main resulting types are therefore
- barrel cuffs, the standard style fastened by one or two buttons according to taste;
- double, or French, cuffs, which are more formal, and have an extra length of sleeve folded back and fastened with links;
- and single cuffs, the most formal style, usually only worn with formal eveningwear, which are double cuffs without the fold.
In addition, there are some variations, such as whether barrel cuffs are mitred, when the corner is cut off at 45°. Less common styles include a double cuff closed with buttons, the Portofino, or cocktail cuff, which was made first by the Jermyn Street shirtmakers Turnbull & Asser, and later popularised by the fictional character James Bond in the films from 1962 onwards.
Other features
A good shirt has long tails, extending almost to the knees at the back, so a daytime shirt has many buttons, sometimes eight or more, while most shirts have at least seven. The vertical band running down the front opening that contains the buttonholes is called the placket, and gives a more symmetrical appearance to the join between the left side, on top, and the right. This left over right order is also seen in waistcoat and coat fastenings, though women's clothing buttons the other way (right over left).
To give extra fullness to the back, there are often pleats where the back panel joins to the yoke. On some fittings these are not needed, and handmade shirts may feature the extra fabric being worked continuously into the seam. In America, a box pleat is common (two pleats together in the centre), while in Britain the pleats are placed wider out under the shoulders.
The more formal shirts in England will have no pockets, but the standard shirt in America has a single pocket on the wearer's left side, which is a sewn-on patch with a plain upper hem, optionally with a single button for closure. This small pocket is large enough to hold a pack of cigarettes or a few pens and a pocket protector.[4] Less formal shirts may feature larger pockets, dual pockets, or pockets with flap closures; safari or other military styled shirts often feature two large pockets with buttoned flaps.
Short-sleeved shirts have a plain (no-button) hem above the wearer's elbow. Short-sleeved shirts are considered to be casual, and are a summer or tropical option, though many people only wear the traditional long sleeves.[5]
Formal shirts
In the United Kingdom, the term dress shirt is reserved for a particular type of formal shirt. There are formal day shirts for wearing with morning dress, and the white dress shirts used as eveningwear.
A day dress shirt is fairly similar to a normal shirt, and is usually white, with a stiff detachable collar, though other designs, such as a fine horizontal blue stripe, are also appropriate. Double cuffs are most common. This sort of shirt is also required to be worn by some barristers and judges.
An evening shirt, for wear with eveningwear, for example as part of black or white tie has some unique features. In the U.S., this shirt is often called a tuxedo shirt or tux. shirt. The shirt is always white.
The shirt required for white tie is very specific. It should have a detachable wing collar and be fastened with shirt studs instead of buttons on the front. The studs are normally mother of pearl set in gold or silver, but black onyx inlay is also permissible. The cufflinks should match the studs. The front panels of the shirt are made from either many layers of thick cotton, or marcella (piqué cotton). Marcella is more common, but a little less formal, though still appropriate, as it was originally designed to be used on formal evening shirts, as the ribbing can pick up more starch and create an even stiffer front. Traditionally, collarless shirts with a detachable wing collar fastened on with collar studs have been used, but all-in-one designs are occasionally seen, though this is considered incorrect and to give a poor appearance by many.[6][7] Cuffs are single, and heavily starched (if the front is marcella, the cuffs usually match).
Black tie offers more leeway. Shirts may be soft (not starched). The possible options for a soft front are unstarched marcella, or pleated. The collar is still sometimes a stiff high collar (such as commonly in America), or a turndown collar (more frequently seen in Britain). In past decades, particularly the 1970s, ruffled-shirt fronts were fashionable, although they are now out of favour. Dress-studs are optional, and are onyx set in either silver or gold if used; otherwise the buttons must be concealed under a placket. Cufflinks should be as simple and understated as possible, and harmonise, if not match, the studs.
Materials
Shirts are made of woven cloth. The yarns most frequently used in the past were cotton and linen, but polyester or polyester blends are now used most due to their cost, despite being considered by most tailors the poorest material.[8] Linen produces a cool fabric that wrinkles heavily, and is mostly used in light summer shirts. Cotton is therefore the standard material for all but the cheapest shirts. Silk is occasionally worn, though it is hot and has a marked sheen.
These yarns are woven into a variety of different weaves, the most notable of which include broadcloth, with double the number of warp to weft threads, giving a smooth, formal shirting; twill, where the tucks of the weft do not line up, giving a diagonal pattern, a weave used for most country checked (e.g. tattershall) shirtings; and poplin, with a heavier warp than weft, giving more formal fabric. There are many other weaves or variations on these, including patterns such as end-on-end, where alternate white and coloured threads are used, giving a mottled appearance, and exotic weaves such as voile and batiste, extremely light fabrics only used in summer shirts or on the unseen parts of formal shirts.[9]
The use of pattern and colour is also significant. Originally, in the Edwardian era, all shirts were white. Gradually more colours were introduced, including blue, the most popular colour, particularly in lighter shades, such as Wedgewood. The intended use of shirts dictates different choices of pattern. For example, country shirts are usually checked, with checks of different sizes to co-ordinate with tweeds of different pattern, and featuring one, two, or sometimes more, colours of check over a light cream or white background. For city shirts, plain or striped designs are more common, most stripes being vertical, while horizontal stripes are a legitimate and more formal option. Some colours, such as purple or pink, are only worn with city shirts.
Further, the use of colour is seasonal, with shades such as green being associated more with autumn than summer ones like yellow.
Wearing the shirt
A dress shirt is ironed to remove any wrinkles and can be treated with starch for added smoothness and stiffness. The hem is tucked into the trouser. For informal or formalwear, a coat and tie (or bow tie) are compulsory. When a tie is worn, the top button of the shirt is fastened, so the tie can fit snugly around the wearer’s neck with a neat appearance.
In casual usage, this is often not followed, with many choosing to wear shirts not tucked in, or leaving the top button undone with a tie. Even more casually, some now choose not to iron their shirts, or use untraditional 'non-iron' fabrics.
Fit
In the United States, sizes of dress shirts traditionally consist of two numbers such as 15½ 34 (the second number is often below the first on the label). This example means that the shirt has a neck that is 15.5 inches in girth (measured from centre of top button to centre of corresponding buttonhole) and a sleeve 34 inches long (measured from midpoint of the back and shoulders to the wrist).
However, in response to economic pressures to reduce the number of sizes needed to be manufactured and stocked, sizing is now frequently seen with average sleeve lengths as three numbers of the form 15½ 34/35. This example means that the shirt has a neck that is 15.5 inches in girth and a sleeve 35 inches long. However, the cuff frequently features two buttons, allowing the cuff diameter to be tightened so that the cuff does not come down over the hand. This allows the shirt to fit the shorter length.
Since the sleeve and neck size don't take into account waist size, most shirts are cut wide to accommodate most body shapes. Shirts cut for flat stomachs are usually labeled, "fitted", "athletic fit" or "trim fit." The terms for fuller cut shirts are more varied; sometimes they are explained at a shirt maker's website.
Casual button-front shirts are usually sized as small, medium, large, XL, etc. The meaning of these ad-hoc sizes is not standardized and varies between manfacturers.
In the bespoke industry, these sizing problems are avoided, but there are still different ways making the shirt fit. While many choose to cut the sleeve long, and have the cuff catch on the hand to regulate its length, some prefer the much harder option of using a high armhole and carefully tailored shape, so that the cuff can be loose and still sit in exactly the right place wherever the arm moves.[10]
Notable makers of dress shirts
According to an independent survey, [11] the world's best men's shirtmakers are:
- Giorgo Armani
- Luigi Borelli
- Budd
- Davide Cenci
- Charvet
- Harvie & Hudson
- Hermès
- Hilditch & Key
- Ralph Lauren Purple Label
- New & Lingwood
- J. Press
- Thomas Pink
- Turnbull & Asser
- Ermenegildo Zegna
For 60 years, U.S. designers and manufacturers of neckties and dressshirts were members of the Men's Dress Furnishings Association but the trade group shut down in 2008 due to declining membership due to the declining numbers of men wearing neckties.[12]
See also
Bibliography
These general works cover most of the material in the article, and are not referenced by page on all points.
- Antongiavanni, Nicholas (2006). The Suit: A Machiavellian Approach to Men's Style, HarperCollins. ISBN 978-0-06-089186-2.
- Keers, Paul (October 1987). A Gentleman's Wardrobe: Classic Clothes and the Modern Man, Weidenfeld & Nicolson. ISBN 978-0297791911.
- Flusser, Alan (1985). Clothes and the Man: The Principles of Fine Men's Dress, Villard. ISBN 0-394-54623-7, http://www.throughtherye.com/flusser/index_current.html. Retrieved on 20 September 2008.
- Flusser, Alan (2002). Dressing the Man: Mastering the Art of Permanent Fashion, HarperCollins. ISBN 0-06-019144-9.
References
- ^ Antongiavanni (2002). p. 101
- ^ Flusser (2002). p. 27
- ^ Boehlke, Will (2008-10-21). "Collars and Cuffs". A Suitable Wardrobe. Retrieved on 2008-10-23.
- ^ Boehlke, Will (2008-08-14). "On Shirt Pockets". A Suitable Wardrobe. Retrieved on 2008-10-23.
- ^ Antongiavanni. (2002)
- ^ Flusser (2002). pp. 238–239
- ^ Antongiavanni (2006). p. 174
- ^ Antongiavanni (2006). p. 109
- ^ Flusser (2002). pp. 135, 277–305
- ^ Antongiavanni (2006). p. 106
- ^ Dubow, Charles (Dec 17, 2003). "The World's Best Men's Shirtmakers", Forbes Magazine. Retrieved on 18 October 2008.
- ^ SMITH, RAY A. (June 4, 2008). "Tie Association, a Fashion Victim, Calls It Quits as Trends Change", Wall Street Journal, pp. A1. Retrieved on 7 June 2008.
External links
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